The Advantages of Firewood

Trees are a 100% renewable heat resource; need little or no irrigation and require very little disturbance of the soil over their growth cycle. The thinning of woodlands not only provides wood for fuel but helps the woodlands flourish by allowing trees more room to grow.


Beyond the memories that the scent of smoke brings, firewood is amazing for several reasons:

  • Lowering your utility costs. Firewood is the most cost-effective fuel for domestic heating as stated by Research Institute of Sustainable Energy.
  • Firewood has been shown to be 6x more economic than electric heat, 5x more economic than gas heat and 4x more economic than oil. Firewood is a renewable resource.
  • You are no longer a victim to blackouts of conventional heating systems during storms or power failures. With a cord of firewood, you have heat!
  • A blazing fireplace creates ambiance and atmosphere unlike anything else.
  • Burning firewood is carbon neutral and does not contribute to global warming. Wood to rotting on the forest floor releases the same amount of carbon dioxide as it does when the wood is burned properly.

Buying locally sourced and seasoned firewood supports your local economy. Firewood can be seasoned (dry) or unseasoned (fresh/wet). It is classified as hardwood or softwood depending on the burn quality. Additionally, buying and burning firewood that was cut only a short distance from its last destination prevents the accidental spread of invasive tree-killing insects and diseases.

What is the best wood for firewood?


Oak: Known for its long, slow burns, oak is likely the best firewood wood.

Maple and Ash: Burns steady and is easy to split - what more could you ask for?

Typical hardwoods that are ideal for firewood are apple, cherry, and birch. Most fruit trees are great for firewood as they will give you a hotter and longer burn time. These woods have the least pitch and sap and are generally cleaner to handle.

On the other hand, pines, or firs burns very rapidly, creates a great deal of smoke, and coats your chimney with soot.

Firewood is great for burning in your wood stove, also known as a cook stove or fireplace. When camping outdoors in the fall, scavenging firewood for a campfire is sure to create memories. Indoors, a wood burning fireplace is a great way to save on heating costs in the winter. Having a cord or half cord of wood piled up outside the door is a great way to cozy up and stay warm on chilly nights. Just throw a few logs in to the fireplace and you are good to go on even the coldest winter nights.

Using what is left over after a fire:


When you do find yourself at the bottom of a burned-out fire, all that typically remains is a heap of embers and ash. While this typically just gets thrown out, there are many uses for it.

  • Planting a tomato garden? You can use this ash and save on fertilizer.
  • When old metal that is looking a little dull put some ashes in a rag and rub it for a metal polish.
  • Add it to your compost as compost is naturally acidic, wood ash is a great addition, plus it adds calcium. Remember a little can go a long way, you do not want to upset the balance in your compost so think layering or sprinkling not pouring.
  • Use it to de-ice instead of salt. Tossing some on an icy driveway or road can help with traction.
  • Wood ash makes a great repellent for snails and slugs.

Storing firewood:


There are many ways to store firewood. These range from simple piles to free-standing stacks, to specialized structures. The goal of storing wood is to keep water away from it and to continue the drying process. Keeping firewood indoors is not recommended because it increases the risk of introducing termites into the home. Firewood should be stacked with the bark facing upwards. This allows the water to drain off, and standing frost, ice, or snow to be kept from the wood. Storing firewood on a pallet to keep it off the ground will keep moisture away as well.

Let Advanced Tree Care be your place for firewood this season! We offer firewood split seasoned and log length wood with free delivery within 10 miles.

Call us for pricing. Advanced Tree Care: 908-637-8476


Eastern Tent Caterpillars

Beneficial or Nuisance?

The answer of course is both!

Tent caterpillars are one of several web-spinning caterpillars, which includes both gypsy moth and webworms. Tent caterpillars are natives to the east coast, and that means they have native predators after them. It is much more difficult for tent caterpillars to become a major nuisance because a variety of birds as well as insects eat them. Unlike gypsy moth caterpillars as they are not native and have no natural predators; most birds dislike the taste of gypsy caterpillars. Among the birds that eat tent caterpillars are robins, blue jays, red-winged blackbirds, and cardinals. Insects that feed on these caterpillars are various tiny braconid, ichneumonid, and chalcid wasps which helps regulate the population.


These caterpillars leave the tent every day to feed, they sometimes will have to go around the tree to find, fresh leaves. If the tree they are on is large, they may have to explore several branches before they find a meal. Eastern Tent Caterpillars have already figured out how to be most efficient; as they leave the nest tent, they leave a trail with a silken thread. Just like an ant trail other caterpillar will follow it to food. If there turns out to be no leaves, the caterpillar will tear the thread.

Yes, the nests can appear unsightly, however in most cases Eastern Tent Caterpillars do not cause irreparable harm to host trees. Typically, tent caterpillars defoliate a few branches and only actively feed for about six weeks. The nests the tent caterpillars design is basically the cocoon of the caterpillar. There is generally only one generation a season.

In the spring they especially favor plants like cherry, apple, and chokecherry, later they will move onto other leafy shade trees. Eastern tent caterpillar nests are commonly found on wild cherry, apple, and crabapple, but may be found on hawthorn, maple, peach, pear and plum as well.

The eastern tent caterpillar overwinters as an egg, within an egg mass of 150 to 400 eggs. These masses are covered with a shiny, black varnish-like material and encircle branches that are about pencil-size or smaller in diameter.


The caterpillars hatch about the time the buds begin to open, usually in early March. These insects are social; caterpillars from one egg mass stay together and spin a silken tent in a crotch of a tree. Caterpillars from two or more egg masses may unite to form one large colony. During the heat of the day or rainy weather, the caterpillars remain within the tent. They emerge to feed on leaves in the early morning, evening, or at night when it is not too cold.

Controlling tent caterpillar populations:

  • Insecticides are generally ineffective against mature larvae (i.e. caterpillars).
  • Removal and destruction of the egg masses from shade and fruit trees during the winter will help contain the population.
  • In the early spring, small tents can be removed and destroyed by hand.
  • Larger tents may be pruned out and destroyed or removed by winding the nest upon the end of a stick.
  • Burning the tents out with a torch is not recommended since this can easily damage the tree.

Restrict caterpillar movement and cut off access to feeding areas with sticky tree bands. Using an insecticide that contains neem oil will disrupt growth. It also is non-toxic to honeybees and other beneficial insects. Fast-acting botanical insecticides need to be alast resort, although there are fewer harmful side effects as compared to chemical insecticides. Depending on the amount of egg masses along with predator populations, Eastern Tent Caterpillar populations will wax and wane.

If the nests are too high to comfortably remove calling Advanced Tree Care LLC for help is always a good choice.


Hurricanes- ‘Tis the Season

Hurricanes come with strong winds, driving rain and sometimes tornados. Making sure your property is in good shape and your trees are healthy is better done prior to hurricane season than during, which is about the worst time.

The professionals at Advanced Tree Service LLC can help by seeing which trees need extensive pruning to remove cracked limbs or anchoring others to withstand punishing winds.

Hazardous trees: Generally, these are trees that have ‘health’ related issues.

  • A tree with large limbs that are broken and hanging.
  • The trunk is badly infested with mold or rot or insects.
  • Recent or ongoing weather-related damage.

It is always a good idea at least once a season to take a look around your property. Whether it is a bush or shrub that fared badly through the winter or an old family favorite that is shedding limbs, taking an inventory gives you an idea of the work ahead.

Dangerous trees: These are trees that can impair the quality of life for your family and your property.

  • Pine trees are known among others for this, growing so tall as to tower over your home.
  • A tree that has begun to tilt due to either height or age.
  • Tree roots that can or have begun to break your home’s foundation, walkways, or driveway.
  • Limbs of trees growing near cable or electrical wires.

Trees like this need to be removed to not further compound problems. The tilting or towering trees can come down in any sort of storm and often at the worst possible time. Having a tree pierce your roof or shatter the picture window during a hurricane is financially unpleasant. It is significantly less costly to remove a dangerous tree in calm weather than to have to hire a removal in an emergency.

Other tasks before extreme weather hits:

  • Remove items that may fly around in windy conditions like pool toys, children’s bicycles, and toys.
  • Secure larger items by tying them down if necessary, including pool ladders, swing sets and sandboxes.
  • Get a professional assessment of your property by Advance Tree Service LLC

Watching a storm from inside the safety of your house is much more relaxing knowing your home and family are safe.

adtc spotted lanternfly

Beware the Spotted Lanternfly

The spotted lanternfly is one of the newer invasive pests’ intent upon damaging a wide variety of trees, including hardwood and fruit. It was first discovered in 2012. The spotted lanternfly likely arrived as egg sacks on a stone delivery from Asia to Berks County PA. Since then the Spotted Lanternfly (SLF) has traveled through much of central and eastern Pennsylvania, into New Jersey and down to Virginia.


The Spotted Lanternfly (SLF) in all its stages is harmful to both hardwood and fruit trees. The adult uses its piercing-sucking mouthpart to feed on sap from over 70 different plant species. It shows a preference for trees necessary for the lumber industry including maple trees, black walnut, birch, willow, among other trees. It damages trees by feeding on sap which weakens the tree, and the wounds created attracts mold and other insects. When spotted lanternflies feed, they excrete a sugary substance, called honeydew, that encourages the growth of black sooty mold.


This is a pretty and pretty big bug which hops more than flies, referred to as a plant jumper. Prettiness aside, if you see them, do your best to crush them. As they are agile jumpers, this is often harder than it looks. This pest has no natural predators. Praying mantises will eat some as will spiders, but not in large enough numbers.

While the lifespan of an adult Spotted lanternfly is only a year, all cycles of its life are hazardous to trees. While it does not kill the tree, it will weaken it and with enough damage the tree will die.

Damage in trees includes:

  • Oozing sap
  • Wilting and leaf curling
  • Tree dieback

The Life Cycle of the Spotted Lanternfly and actions you can take:

  • The eggs are laid in the fall and hatch in the spring. Egg masses are laid on hard surfaces, trees, decks, outdoor equipment, rocks, and the like. It is protected with a mud-like covering. Each egg mass contains 30–50 eggs.

Check all your trees in the fall, as well as all outside woodpiles and stone walls. Egg sacks can be scrapped from trees, stonewalls or wood piles with a putty knife or credit card, placed in a plastic bag with hand sanitizer or alcohol and killed.

  • The Nymphs stages can be hard to see due to their size, ⅛ to ½ inch. The first three stages (instars) are all black with white spots, the last instar stage is red with white dots and black stripes.

Place sticky bands about four feet from the ground and wrap it tightly against the bark of the tree. Make sure to eliminate gaps, so instars cannot crawl under the tape. Secure the wrapped sticky band with staples or pushpins. Replace the tape every other week. ‘Caging’ the tree in wire will prevent songbirds or squirrels from getting stuck to the tape.

  • SLF adults emerge in July and are active until winter. They are obvious as they are large and very active, particularly at dusk. Adults have black bodies with brightly colored wings. Only the adults can fly. SLF wings are gray with black spots, and the tips of the wings are black with gray veins. Spotted lanternflies are excellent jumpers.

Crush them as you can. Make a game of it with the children, where you see one, there are more. As they have no natural predators, every one killed is a win for your trees.

The host tree for the spotted lanternfly is the Tree of Heaven which is a rapidly growing deciduous tree with pale gray bark, light brown twigs and large pinnately compound leaves, which is a leaf that has leaflets growing from several places along the stalk. It is native to China and was brought to the United States in the late 1700s and was initially used as a shade tree. It is difficult to get rid of due to its aggressive root system, which pushes out native trees, as well as cracking sidewalks.

Calling the tree professionals at Advanced Tree LLC is your best recourse for getting rid of an invasive tree which hosts the invasive Spotted Lanternfly.


Can June Bugs Harm My Trees?

What is a June Bug?

The name "June bug" refers to any of the 300 species of beetles that are related to the scarabs familiar from ancient Egyptian iconography. Other common names for the June bug include June Beetle, May Beetle and Japanese Beetle. The common June bug is one-half to five-eighths inches long and can be green, brown or reddish-brown in color. Being beetles, they also sport shiny wing covers, called elytra.

June bugs are best known for causing damage to gardens, lawns, and pastures. They are considered ‘chafers’, meaning they eat vegetation, i.e. leaves, However, in their grub form, they wreak havoc on roots. They will not eat the entire leaf, but over time, plants will be damaged. Their scientific name is Phyllophaga, Greek for leaf eater.) They do not typically cause much damage to trees, however there are at least 6 trees that are known to suffer from June Bug infestations.

Which Trees Are Affected by June Bugs?

Japanese Maple with June Bug Damage

Walnut Trees

Fig Trees

Apricot Trees

Plum Trees

Apple Trees

Japanese Maples & June Bugs

Japanese Maples, on occasion can suffer as much as your leafy garden plants when June Bugs are active. While it's rarely extensive enough to kill the Japanese Maple, it certainly does not lead to a healthy tree, and as these trees are often chosen for their beauty, these pests are problem enough affecting the beauty of your landscape. If you notice June Beetle damage on your Japanese Maple, you are likely noticing dead patches on your lawn as well.

Walnut Trees & June Bugs

While most damage caused by June Bugs is caused by their grubs, adult June Bugs love to snack on Walnut Tree Leaves. They are nocturnal and may be munching away on these leaves each night. If you notice leaf damage on your walnut trees, check in the evening for June Bug Swarms. Again, they are easily treated, and if you have adult June Bugs, you will get baby June bugs (grubs) that will attack your lawn and garden in a big way. Your walnut will likely stand up to some midnight June Bug snacks, but infestations can lead to a compromised tree, leaving it more susceptible to disease.

Fruit Trees & June Bugs

Loving Soft Fruit Trees, the Adult June Bug may swarm your favorite Fig Tree to consume the fruit juice from your figs. They are attracted to ripe fruits - especially if birds have pecked holes in the skin of the fruit. 

They also love plum and apricot trees for the same reason. Apple trees are less susceptible to June Bugs, however, given the opportunity to feast on some apple juice, they won't pass up some free apple juice.

While they aren't likely to kill your tree, no one wants to share their fruit with a beetle. Luckily, June bugs are easy to treat for, especially with an experienced arborist on your side.

  • June bugs are nocturnal.
  • They feed from dusk through the evening hours to avoid predators.
  • June bugs derive their name from the fact that adult June bugs emerge from the soil at the end of spring or the beginning of the summer.
  • Late May and early June is mating season. The June bugs have just weeks to reproduce after that, they die.
  • June bugs spend most of their lives underground.
  • The white, grub-like larva of the June bug lives in soil for up to three years.
  • They have an extra set of wings, but they can't fly worth squat. These notoriously lame flyers have two sets of wings. Only one pair provides what scientists call lift.

Although nocturnal, June Bugs are drawn to porch lights and scientists don’t understand why. June bugs that die because of porch light interactions though, provide an important source of food to many animals, including birds.


Females bury their eggs just below the soil surface. Each female buries between 50 and 200 small pearl-like eggs in the soil. After three years of feeding on plant roots, the larvae pupate, emerge as adults in late summer, and then bury themselves again for the winter In spring and early summer, these larva also known as grubs, grow into pupae. Within 3 weeks, these pupae mature into adult June bugs. Your lovely lawn is what draws June Bugs, where the grubs happily chomp away at the roots of your lawn’s grass.

  • Dead patches of grass
  • Damaged plants
  • Bare patches

All are signs of a ground dwelling June Bug infestation. Overseeding seems to make your lawn less ‘tasty’ to these bugs. Make sure the lawn is well hydrated.

Trees at risk: While the grubs feed on roots, the adults feast on a wide variety of over 300 crops and flowers. They are known to prefer raspberries, grapes, beans, fig, apple, plum, and roses.

Common June bug: The common June bug is primarily found eating the foliage of leafy plants as well as maize, corn, and walnut and oak trees.

Some of the most common types are as follows:

Common June bug (Phyllophaga), discussed above.


Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica), this is a slightly smaller variety of June bug at around half an inch in length.


Green fruit beetle (Cotinis nitida) is a large bronze and metallic green beetle that is often seen in June and July flying in low, lazy circles just a few inches above lawns or turf grass. They don't sting or bite and are not dangerous to humans. They use their pincers to break the skin on figs


European Chafer (Rhizotrogus majalis), formerly found only in continental Europe, this invasive species is now found at temperate latitudes in North America. The large, white grubs of A.majale feed on the roots of most cool-latitude grasses, both wild and cultivated. This has made the European chafer an enemy of lawns.


The problem with having grub larvae in your lawn is that other animals are attracted and will tear up your lawn seeking out the grubs. So, June Bugs are trouble from one end of their lives to the other end.

There are some insects that are predators of June bugs, or fruit traps can be set. Only in the cases of severe infestations or a completely dead lawn are insecticides recommended.

5 great maples

5 Great Maples for New Jersey, and 1 to Avoid

Driving around New Jersey, you see graceful trees with interesting leaves in yards, some with red leaves, others in green. These are Maple Trees. They can be short and wide, or towering and look good in all seasons. Maples trees are known for maple syrup, otherwise know as sugaring, as well as the seed pods which when thrown up in the air, turn into helicopters bringing a smile to adults and joy to children. The ‘helicopters’ or whirlybirds are actually how maple trees disperse their seed. They can live at least a hundred years and upwards to 400 years old.

Interesting facts about maple trees:

  • Leaves are divided in 3 to 9 lobes (rarely to 13). The edges of the leaves are slightly serrated with varying sizes in teeth.
  • Some maples are an early spring source of pollen and nectar for bees.
  • Japanese Ornamental maple trees can be used for bonsai.
  • Leaves change color from green to different shades of yellow, orange, and red during the autumn. The flowers can be green, yellow, orange, or red in color and contain both male and female parts instead of separate female and male parts of individual trees.
  • Maple tree roots continue to grow.

Maple Trees to consider:

Sugar Maple


A great shade tree, it is also tolerant of being in the shade. It has darker green leaves which turn yellow, burnt orange or red in Autumn. It does not thrive in soil with a high salt content. The tree is large tree with a densely rounded crown. The leaves are medium green in color with three or five lobes; the foliage turns yellow orange in fall.

This maple is the first choice for those seeking to make maple syrup, as the sap contains a larger percentage of plant sugars than with any other maple species. It is a good tree for residential properties as it does not do well in urban conditions as it is not tolerant of compacted soils, road salts, or pollution. It does better in shade than most large deciduous trees.

The Black maple is now considered a subspecies of the sugar maple. It displays similar characteristics: dense, rounded crown; dark, furrowed bark; and brilliant fall color. The wood is stronger, stiffer, harder, and denser than all the other commercial species of maple.

Red Maple


Red maple trees grow between 40 to 60 feet in height. The red maple lives up to its name at many points throughout the year. The red spring buds turn into red seed structure (samaras) hanging from reddish twigs. Reds return to the tree with the fall color change.

This medium-sized maple is a common landscape tree in North America, a classic shade tree with a rounded or oval-shaped crown. Three-lobed or five-lobed green leaves usually turn reddish in fall, though the hues can be unpredictable. Fall color also varies according to variety, ranging from greenish-yellow to red to burgundy.

The red maple is a fast grower without the bad habits of fast growers. It quickly makes shade without the compromise of becoming brittle and messy. Nectar from the flowers is a valuable food source for native bees and honeybees. This wildlife-friendly species is a host for butterfly and moth larvae (caterpillars), including Rosy Maple Moth and Cecropia Moth. The caterpillars provide an early spring food source for birds.

The Japanese Maple


This maple has around 400 hundred varieties, many with very deep red leaves, and often other interesting traits, such as dissected leaves and a weeping growth habit.

Silver Maple


The undersides of this maple tree's leaves are silver and flash attractively in the wind. The silver maple is one of the trees you are most likely to see throughout the U.S. since it naturalizes very easily and grows very quickly. In a neglected yard, seedlings may quickly spout up and overtake a landscape. In fall, this tree turns attractive shades of yellow, orange, or red. This is another shallow-rooted tree that should be kept away from areas with pipes or paving.

Trident Maple


This maple likes full sun and tolerates drought. Height is 20-25’ tall and 30’ wide.The foliage is a spectrum of color through the seasons, bronze-purple when new, becoming green in the summer, and turning red, yellow, and orange in the fall.

Maple trees have shallow root systems and can break foundations and sidewalks, be careful to be plant well away from your home. Precision Tree and Landscaping can assist in picking the right area to plant your maple trees, so they and you enjoy many years of beauty.

One to stay away from:

Norway Maples


Often planted replacement tree because of its fast growth and deep shade.

  • Its messy tree, dropping flower buds, two crops of seeds, twigs, branches, and copious amounts of leaves.
  • During storms large branches can break off from the top, then re-sprouting which happens along the truck.
  • It sends many shoots and seedlings out which need to be hand pulled to remove.
  • Nothing grows underneath them.
  • It is the last tree to lose its leaves in the fall, often not until after Thanksgiving, which means that having my gutters cleaned is a game of Russian roulette. Will the leaves fall before it snows? Maybe or not
Emerald Ash Borer

The Pretty Green Ash Killer: Emerald Ash Borer

What is the Emerald Ash Borer?

The Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) is an invasive insect from Asia that kills ash trees by destroying the water and nutrient conducting tissues under the tree's bark.

The emerald ash borer (Agrilus planipennis) is a green buprestid or jewel beetle native to north-eastern Asia that feeds on the ash species.

Females lay eggs in bark crevices on ash trees, and larvae feed underneath the bark of ash trees to emerge as adults in one to two years.

Although it has only been in this country since 2002, hitchhiking here by planes and cargo ships, it has decimated millions of ash trees.

Which Trees are at Risk?

The emerald ash borer attacks and kills all North American species of Ash. In NJ, the Ash species mostly at risk are the Green Ash, White Ash, as well as the closely related White Fringetree. Infested Ash Trees in North America generally die within two to three years.

Green Ash Tree

White Ash Tree

White Fringe Tree

Ash Trees are a New Jersey Treasure

Ash trees are an important part of America's urban and rural landscape. They are commonly found on city streets and in windbreaks as well as residential properties. In many areas, ash trees are one of the few trees suitable for planting in urban areas.

Ash wood is also an essential resource, used to make furniture, hardwood floors, baseball bats, tool handles, electric guitars, hockey sticks and other materials that require high strength and resilience.

The Damage Inflicted by the Emerald Ash Borer

Adult beetles are 1/2” long and 1/8” wide, metallic green in color, with a metallic copper red abdomen. The adults feed only on ash foliage, however the more significant damage is caused by their larvae wich feed on the inner bark of the ash tree.

Newly hatched larvae penetrate the tree and feed in the area between the bark and the wood, which is where tree nutrients are transported. The beetle larvae overwinter in the outer portions of wood or bark and pupate in the spring. They have a one- or two-year life cycle completed entirely in association with ash trees. Adults emerge in late spring. They mate, feed and lay eggs, and together, the adult and larvae decimate an ash tree often within 2 years of infestation.

How to Spot an Emerald Ash Borer Problem

The time to deal with an Emerald Ash Borer Infestation is BEFORE you notice it. Trees with noticeable Ash Borer damage can be saved, but due to the rapid spread of the EAB and the susceptibility of Ash Trees to this infestation, it's essential for the survival of our Ash population that we are mindful to monitor our Ash Trees closely. 

If you have Ash Trees on your property, please have the crown inspected regularly by an arborist. (Once/year) Ashes tend to be very large, so we don't recommend climbing up into the tree yourself. An arborist can identify early signs of infestation. The earlier an infestation is noticed, the more likely it is, not only that the tree can be saved, but that the EAB can infestation can be noted with forrestry management, triggering a push to treat any ash trees within a 15 mile radius of the infestation to protect our precious Ash population. 

If you notice any of the following, please schedule an inspection right away:

  • D shaped holes throughout the bark of the tree
  • Woodpecker activity in the tree
  • Reduced Foliage
  • Weak/Dying Branches
  • Epicormic Sprouting (when the tree tries to grow new branches wherever it can... you may see twig sized branche sprouting from the trunk)
  • Splitting Bark/S shaped galleries

Emerald Ash Borer Treatments

While there are four types of treatment for emerald ash borer protection, the first thing is to get your trees inspected, to make sure it is viable for treatment. An ash tree with significant damage needs to be removed. Many will require the more dangerous branches be removed. 

Ash trees with minimal damage or none are the best candidates for treatment. Any Ash with more than 50% loss in foliage is likely beyond saving.

Treatment options include soil injection and trunk injection, delivering the solution into the tree's circulatory system and spreading it throughout the canopy.

These treatments target the larvae tunneling in the tree. Bark spray is used on the bottom 5-6 feet of the tree trunk, and canopyy sprays prevent adult borers from feeding and laying eggs. Controlled and systematic applications are the safest for both your tree and the immediate environment. There are consumer-available treatments, however they are not as effective as those available to professional arborists. 

If you have Ash Trees on your property, please have the crown inspected regularly by an arborist. (Once/year) Ashes tend to be very large, so we don't recommend climbing up into the tree yourself. An arborist can identify early signs of infestation. The earlier an infestation is noticed, the more likely it is, not only that the tree can be saved, but that the EAB can infestation can be noted with forrestry management, triggering a push to treat any ash trees within a 15 mile radius of the infestation to protect our precious Ash population. 

Treatments will have to be applied on a consistent basis - about once/year. For an Ash Tree inspection, call Advanced Tree Care Today! 

(908) 637-8476

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(908) 637-8476

Advanced Tree Care

5 Hope Rd, Great Meadows, NJ 07838

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